AC Blowing Out Warm Air
If your AC system isn't blowing out cold air this video will help you troubleshoot the components on a straight air condenser to determine what the issue may be.
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What's going on guys got a no ac call.
I was inside the indoor units running just blowing out warm air.
So come out here to the outdoor unit and nothing's on check the float switch inside everything's, good.
So we'll come out here and pull the cover off and we'll see what's going on the breakers are on as well for the condenser.
So it's, not a power issue coming out here, whether it's high voltage or low voltage.
I have both coming out there's, the capacitor, don't visually, see anything the top's not swelled up.
And I don't see any oil that doesn't mean that it's not bad see the contactor sucked in we'll get the meter out here and see if we got 240 coming out.
Okay, we got the meter let's see if we got 240 coming out here, got one lead on let's, check the other side.
There we go.
We got 240 now we'll, check one leg to ground clamp this on our ground.
Here, make sure we got a good connection.
And we got 122 let's check the other leg, 122.
So we got 240 coming out and let's check our low voltage, even though we know we got our 24 volts there as you can see the plunger sucked in so we'll clip on on this side here, our low voltage should be seeing anywhere from 24 to 29 volts here, 27.
So we know we got our high and low voltage coming out so let's, uh, check, the cap let's see what that's, uh, reading here so we'll switch, our meter to our mfd setting and pull out the disconnect.
And before we do that we'll go back to our volt setting.
And we just want to verify that the power is off the best way to do that clamp one lead on your ground and test each leg to ground 0.5 and 0.1.
So we know our power's off.
So now we're good to check the cap and here's.
Our three terminals.
Our yellow is our compressor brown is our fan and the red and purple is our common.
And this is a 35-5 cap all right there.
It is 35 5.
35 is our compressor.
The five is our fan.
We got our meter set to microfarads now on the top here, see we got herm with the three terminals that's.
Our compressor c is for common that's.
Our common with four fan has one that's, our condenser fan motor.
So we gotta test both common to each one.
So we'll just put one lead on our common and we'll leave that there grab one for our fan check that first and we're, looking for five microfarads or plus or minus.
What is it five percent right there? It is so give the meter a second and there it is 4.8 and let's check our compressor meter's running slow today, 33.9 so we'll, check here and we'll see if we're in range, I think that's a little low for a 35 at least it's close to the borderline, but uh that wouldn't be the reason why it's not starting, but uh, let's, just check on the chart, all right here's.
Our microfarad chart, courtesy of uh, lex, shout out to lex all right.
And I have the 7.5 the 30 and the 35 highlighted because those are the capacitors we have on our property.
So this is a 35 so anything 33.25 or lower it's, bad anything over 38.5.
You want to replace it as well.
So we were at 33.9 so we're 0.7 away from the danger zone here so we're going to change that regardless.
So let me uh get a new cap put in here, and then we'll see what happens.
But I want to do some more tests on the contactor here.
I have a feeling that's our issue.
So let's get a good cap in here and we'll be right back.
Okay, here's our new one see right there 35-5.
So we got one lead already clipped on our common now, we'll check it to the herm, and we should be reading something close to 35 microfarads 35.7.
Now, we'll, check it to fan should be close to 5 microfarads.
Oops lead came off.
Give it a meter a second 5.0.
All right? So we know we got a good cap.
So I'm just going to go ahead and mount the capacitor right there and we'll be right back.
Okay, we got our new capacitor, mounted dated, my name on it.
So next guy knows who did it, and when and we'll come up here, see our c terminal, which is right here, put a red on there and always try to face the contact or the capacitor facing out that way.
Next guy can see what size it is here's.
Our compressor wire goes on the herm terminal purple was our other common goes over here.
And the last one would be our brown fan wire.
It goes in the back on the fan terminal okay.
So let's, uh, put the disconnect in we'll.
See? What happens here? See if it starts up, I don't think it will but we'll see nothing still got nothing so let's get the meter out here and we'll check this contact here, a little further.
Okay, we're on volts.
Ac let's, check for 240 coming in there's.
now let's see if we have it coming through the contactor check the top two terminals zero, zero point, zero.
So we don't have any voltage coming through.
And you can see inside the contactor.
There looks like there's a bug, something squished and the contacts there.
So we're gonna we're just gonna throw a new one in okay, we got our power off.
And I also unhook, uh, the low voltage.
So as you can see our plunger here is out, but you always want to confirm one leg on one side to ground and zero.
And then we want to check our other leg to ground.
If I can get this around here to ground zero ground to that leg.
Okay, so we know our power's off I'm just going to go ahead and take off the wires here off the contactor top wires and the bottom and our low voltage and then unmount it.
Our old contactor, see the bug in there pretty good see if I can pull him out with the needle nose, get a better angle here there.
He is they're all part of them.
Anyway, see if the rest of them still in there, I don't see anything just a little piece of them, but that contact is very dark in there.
I don't know if it's coming up on camera, it's, pretty pitted, compared to the bottom.
Bottom, doesn't look the best, but it looks better than the top that's for sure.
But we got a new one right here.
I'm gonna just hook my uh power up to the bottom we'll, get it mounted and hook all the wires up on the top and low voltage on the sides and we'll test it out.
Okay, we got the contactor all wired up I'm, just about to hook up the other side of the low voltage.
As soon as I do that, the plunger will suck in because it's going to have 24 volts so we're going to hear it click here.
You've got to be careful when you do this, because if you touch any metal with the thermostat wire there, it will blow the fuse on your board inside.
And if you don't have a fuse take out your transformer it's best to go in and shut it off at the thermostat instead of doing it, the way I just did it and I'll show you over here.
What I put in I put in one of these little plastic bushings here, because I've had so many of these low voltage wires rub out.
So anytime I work on something on a condenser, I put one of those bushings in and same right here with the high voltage going in there.
I get a lot of rub outs on those too.
So I bought these little plastic bushings.
I just like to slide them over the wires and just kind of set it at the bottom there like that that way those wires won't rub out, neither will the low voltage.
Okay, see our plunger sucked in get ready to turn the breaker on.
And we should have power should be up and running the old.
Steve lav brush here sweep this out.
Here we go.
We have ignition we're up and running.
Okay, got the meter on voltage.
And obviously we're gonna have our 240 up here, but let's see there's our 240.
So to recap outdoor unit, wasn't running came out here.
Um, I had 240 coming here.
I had my low voltage and check the cap it was in range, but just barely.
So we just went ahead and replaced that and contact her.
We had a bug stuck in the uh plunger there in between the contacts, which wasn't allowing it to make contact turn on to send volt voltage through, but we still replace it anyway, due to the condition of the contacts inside there.
So I'm just gonna throw my stub gauge on let it run for about 10-15 minutes and just verify the charge is good on it, which there's never been a problem with the cooling it just wasn't working today.
All right, thanks for watching and I'll.
See you on the next one.
If your air conditioner is blowing out warm air, your unit's refrigerant levels might be low. This usually indicates a refrigerant leak in your system! If that's the case, your air conditioner will continue to run and blow out warm air, trying to reach the temperature you set on your thermostat.How do I fix my AC blowing warm air? ›
- Change the air filter. One major cause of warm air coming from your AC unit is a dirty or clogged air filter. ...
- Check the thermostat settings. ...
- Defrost evaporator coils. ...
- Seal leaks in the ductwork. ...
- Refrigerant leak. ...
- Replace an aging system.
If your air conditioner is running, but not lowering temperatures inside, one issue could be a blocked or clogged condenser coil. When operating correctly, the condenser fan draws air into the outdoor unit through the condenser coil to pull heat energy out of your home.Why is my AC blowing extremely hot air? ›
Common Causes of an Air Conditioner Blowing Warm or Hot Air
These can be due to clogging issues, electrical problems, low refrigerant, evaporator coil malfunctions, or compressor problems. If you've ever had the ac system in your car stop functioning, it's often due to a refrigerant leak or dirty coil.
Clogged air filters can cause various problems in your unit. It can even interfere with how your thermostat works. If the filter is dirty and unclean due to dust, the passage of cool and warm air inside the ducts is blocked. This then leads to the evaporator coils freezing, resulting in your house AC blowing warm air.